Roses give us such a gorgeous display for months on end, so I always feel they deserve a little TLC from us in return. A few simple jobs in autumn and winter set them up beautifully, and I have no doubt they'll repay the favour next summer.
Here are the questions we get asked most, with a little help from Lou, who grows just about every type of rose she can squeeze into her garden.
The short version
- Clear diseased leaves in autumn and put them in the bin.
- Shorten tall shoots by a third now to stop the wind rocking the roots.
- Do the main prune between January and March, depending on the type of rose.
- Spray with Sulphur Rose Plus to keep blackspot and mildew away.
How do I care for my roses in autumn?
Start with a good tidy up. Pick off any diseased leaves, both on the plant and on the ground underneath, as this reduces the chance of the disease coming back on next year's growth. Top tip: put them in the bin or burn them rather than adding them to your compost heap.
Faded flowers can be snipped off, or if you'd like hips for the birds, just let the petals drop and leave the hips to ripen.
Should I cut roses back in autumn?
Only lightly. The main prune happens later in winter (see below), but there are a couple of jobs worth doing now:
- Cut out any dead, damaged or diseased stems.
- Take out stems that cross over each other, which helps air move through the plant.
- Shorten any extra tall, over eager shoots by about a third. This stops the wind rocking the plant about and loosening its roots over winter.
For standard roses (the ones with a single tall stem and all the growth on top, like a lollipop), thin out any crowded stems and shorten the long ones so the head doesn't catch the wind and snap.
Join the P2G Garden Club and we’ll email you each week’s deal, plus the month’s garden jobs. Free to join, unsubscribe any time.
Join the Garden ClubWhen should I prune roses?
The main prune is best done in late winter, from around January to March, on a dry day when the ground isn't frozen. Whichever type you have, always start by removing any dead or diseased stems.
- Climbing roses: tie in the new shoots and cut back the older side shoots by about two thirds.
- Shrub roses: these flower on older wood, so just prune lightly to shape.
- Hybrid tea roses: cut back to around 10 to 15cm from the base.
- Floribunda roses: cut back to around 25 to 30cm from the base.
Another top tip: cut just above an outward facing bud. That's a bud pointing away from the middle of the plant. The new stem grows outwards from it, giving you a nice open shape. Make sure your secateurs are sharp and clean too, as a clean cut heals faster and you won't spread disease from plant to plant.
How can I prevent blackspot and mildew?
Blackspot and mildew won't kill your roses, but they really do spoil the look of them. We use Sulphur Rose Plus, a natural spray that forms a protective barrier on the plant and is kind to pets and wildlife. Give the stems and the soil around them a spray in autumn before the leaves drop, again in late winter after pruning, then once a month through the growing season.
You'll find it in our pest control range.
When should I plant roses?
Autumn and winter are perfect, especially for bare root roses, as long as the ground isn't frozen or waterlogged. Planting now gives them plenty of time to settle in before spring. Roses love sun, so as a general rule, the sunnier the spot the better!
Have a look at our roses to find your next favourite, and if you get the chance, send me photos of yours in bloom next summer. We love seeing them.
Take care,
Lins x
